DRAFT – these instructions are not final, and are likely to change.

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
1231 Front panel 2 Lasercut
1260 Logo 2 Printed
logo-panels
NOTE: ALL acrylic parts come with a protective covering on them. Remove this from the acrylic parts, before assembling them.
Peel the protective covering from the panels, then push out the acrylic parts where the printed logo will fit. Finally, push the logo into position. This is best achieved by placing the panel face down on a flat, solid surface and gently pushing the logo into place. logo-fitted

Endstops

NOTE: Kits supplied after mid-August 2015 are NOT supplied with M2.5x10mm screws to mount the microswitches. Use 3 x cable ties to mount them, as shown in the last step below. This is more effective than using the screws!

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
1231 Front panel 2 Lasercut
1235 Side panel 1 Lasercut
185 Microswitch 3 Electronics
461 M2.5x10mm cap head screw 6 Fastener
endstop-components
Trim the microswitch levers making them flush with the body of the microswitch; ideally do this with some tin shears or good pliers, but it is possible to cut them with a good, big, strong, sharp pair of scissors! Also, bend the levers up a little, with the bend in the middle, not from the lever end. This needs to be done to ensure they are activated by the carriage. RRP-Fisher-instructionupdate-07
Fit two microswitches to the side panel. Note which side to fit the microswitches from the photograph, and ensure the lever points to the top of the panel. endstops-side-panel
Fit the third microswitch to one of the front panels. (Holes are in opposite side, compared to picture.) endstops-front-panel
If you have problems with the screws, you can alternatively use a cable tie. This holds the microswitch securely, so long as it is done up tight. If the cable tie is fitted from the inside, put the ‘head’ of the cable tie at the top of the microswitch, or the carriage will hit it before the microswitch is activated. Or fit the cable tie from the outside. RRP-Fisher-microswitch-02

Base plate

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
Motor assemblies 3 Assembled
1206 Base plate 1 Lasercut
 Picture to come
Slide the base plate along the bars to each motor assembly in turn. Start with the side nearest the rectangular slot to ensure the base plate is correctly orientated. The rectangular slot is visible on the left side of the base plate in this picture.
Double check your assembly and verify it matches the photograph shown. Fitting the base plate upside down will cause problems mounting the electronics and wiring looms.
base-plate-assembled
Once all three motor assemblies are in place, all motors should be flat against the base plate. base-plate-motors-flush

Bed mounting brackets

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
Base plate 1 Assembled
1245 Bed mounting bracket 3 Printed
112 M3x25mm cap head screw 6 Fastener
258 M3 nut 6 Fastener
 Picture to come
For each of the three bed mounting brackets, push two cap head screws through the mounting holes, then place this assembly onto the base plate as shown. bed-mount-fitted
Secure each bed mounting bracket using two M3 nuts below the upper motor brackets. bed-mount-nut-secured
The base should now look like this. bed-mounts-fitted

Side panels

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
Base plate 1 Assembled
Front panel 2 Assembled
Side panel 1 Assembled
Carriages 3 Assembled
Idler brackets 3 Assembled
1186 M3x16mm button head screw 3 Fastener
258 M3 nut 3 Fastener
 Picture to come
Slide each carriage assembly onto a pair of bars. The long series bearings should be on the right side of each carriage. carriages-on-bars
Slide each idler assembly onto a pair of bars as shown. The bars should protrude approximately 5mm above the idler assemblies. This dimension is not critical. idlers-on-bars
Fit each panel in turn. The side panel’s notched pillar must be nearest the rectangular slot in the base plate (these features will help to route the cables later in the build). The front panels should be fitted with the logos facing outwards. When viewed from above, the single microswitch should be on the right hand panel, with the pair of microswitches at the back. panels-fitted
On each motor mount, fit one M3 nut into the nut trap underneath, and secure the panel with one M3x16mm button head screw RRP-Fisher-instructionupdate-01
Check motor orientation. The two motors either side of the side panel (which has holes in it to connect cables to the electronics) should have their motor wiring connectors facing AWAY from the panel, to leave space for the wiring. If it is not like this, simply unscrew the four motor screws, and flip the motor over. The orientation of the third motor’s connector does not matter. RRP-Fisher-instructionupdate-03

Drive belts

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
Fisher 1 Part-assembled
337 MXL belt (cut to a length of 900mm) 3 Hardware
 Picture to come
Ensure the idler is at it’s lowest point by unscrewing the cap head screws retaining it from the top. idler-slack
Run the belt over the idler bearings, toothed side up. belt-over-idler
Slip the belt through each slot in the carriage. Add a 180 twist to the belt going through the larger opening in the carriage (on the left side). belt-twist
Run the belt down around the pulley and back up towards the carriage. belt-under-pulley
Engage the ends of the belt and pull them up through the slot in the carriage. This will require a reasonable amount of force, and lock the belt into the carriage. Do not tension the belt yet; you will need to release the top of the side panels to fit the top plate, later. Anytime you remove the side panels, release the tension in the belt first, or the idler bracket will be pulled downwards. belt-locking
Repeat the above steps for all three axes.