Build Instructions – Base Assembly – Tower Assembly – Panels and Rods – Effector Assembly – Extruder Drive

Hot End Assembly – Electronics – Bed, Top Plate and Belts – Commissioning – Printing – Troubleshooting


This page describes the Duet 2 Maestro electronics shipped with Fisher kits from August 2019.  If you have an earlier Fisher it will have a Duet 0.6, which is described here.

Goal

By the end of this section, you will have wired up the electronics and installed it in the printer frame (view from underneath).

cables-tied-final

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Side Panel Wiring

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
1303.2 Side Panel 1 Laser cut Side panel wiring parts
242 M3x16mm cap head screw 4 Fastener
185 Microswitch 2 Electronics
133 Cable ties 2mm as needed Electronics
6201 Hot end loom – 700mm 1 Wiring
1198 End stop loom – 500mm 1 Wiring
552.1 End stop loom – 600mm 1 Wiring
1199 End stop loom – 800mm 1 Wiring
789 Motor wiring loom – 500mm 1  Wiring
Extruder drive (not shown) 1 Assembly
257 M3 x 12mm cap head screw 2 Fasteners
Remove the protective film from the acrylic panel. Remove the protective film from the acrylic panel.
The microswitches fit to the inside of the panel. Note the orientation of the bottom of the panel; this fits around the Duet electronics.  The microswitches fit to the inside of the panel.
Fit the microswitches with cable ties, as you did with the first microswitch. Make sure the cable tie end is towards the top of the panel.  Fisher Electronics 04
The endstop looms have two wires, and there are three different lengths of looms.  Fisher Electronics 05
The hot end loom has eight wires. Note that if you are upgrading from a Duet 0.6 to a Duet Maestro this cable has changed. You won’t be able to use your Duet 0.6 cable on a Duet Maestro.  hot-end-loom-both-ends
An extruder motor wire has four wires. This is the longest motor wire (500mm). The fourth wire is sometimes yellow, sometimes black. This has no significance.  Fisher Electronics 07
Mount the shortest endstop loom (500mm), the hot end loom and the extruder motor loom on the left side. The other two endstop looms go on the right.  Mount the shortest endstop loom, the hot end loom and the extruder motor loom on the left side. The other two endstop looms go on the right.
Left side: Attach the endstop loom to the microswitch on the left hand side. Put the crimps on the outside tabs of the microswitch, NOT the middle one. Polarity is not important. Try not to bend the crimps on the microswitch tabs, or they will become loose.  Attach the endstop loom to the microswitch on the left hand side. Put the crimps on the outside tabs of the microswitch, NOT the middle one. Polarity is not important. Try not to bend the crimps on the microswitch tabs, or they will become loose.
Fasten the endstop loom in the top cable tie, the endstop and the extruder loom in the next one down, and all three looms in the rest of the cable ties. Don’t fully tighten the cable ties yet, so you can adjust the wire position.  Fasten the endstop loom in the top cable tie, the endstop and the extruder loom in the next one down, and all three looms in the rest of the cable ties. Don’t fully tighten the cable ties yet, so you can adjust the wire position.
Right side: connect the shorter endstop loom (600mm) to the microswitch.  Right side: connect the shorter endstop loom to the microswitch.
Cable tie both wires in all of the positions.  Do not pull the ties tight yet.  Cable tie both wires in all of the positions.
Attach the extuder drive to the panel, using two M3x12mm cap head screws from the outside. Connect the extruder motor loom to the extruder motor.  Fisher Electronics 13

Fit the Panel and Connect

As with the other panels, lift the printer up off the surface, and fit the top of the panel onto the screws in the idler printed part.   As with the other panels, lift the printer up off the surface, and fit the top of the panel onto the screws in the idler printed part.
Line up the bottom with the holes in the motor mounts, and fasten with four M3x16mm cap head screws. Make sure the wiring looms fit into the slots in the base plate.  Line up the bottom with the holes in the motor mounts, and fasten with four M3x16mm cap head screws
Connect the Bowden tube to the extruder. Push the bowden tube into the pneumatic fitting.  Connect the Bowden tube to the extruder. Simply push the bowden tube into the pneumatic fitting.
Position the nozzle of the hot end touching the approximate centre of the bed by hand.  This is a top view showing what the Bowden tube length should be like – you want a loop so the hot end is free to move everywhere over the bed without causing a tight bend at either end, but you don’t want it so long that it flaps about.

If you need to, shorten the tube with a sharp blade.  Take care to make a right-angled cut.

top-view-bowden-length
Connect the third microswitch in the same way as the other two, and cable tie it to the panel.  Connect the third microswitch in the same way as the other two, and cable tie it to the panel.
Connect the hot end loom to the hot end. It is useful to cable tie the loom loosely to the Bowden tube, above and below the connector.  Check that plugging the connectors together has not pushed any of the crimps partly out of their shells.  If it has, use a narrow-bladed screwdriver to push them back.  Connect the hot end loom to the hot end.
Now adjust the cable lengths until everything is neat, moving the mechanism between the top and bottom and side to side to check. The hot end loom and Bowden tube should move together. Try and get a nice loop, so they move cleanly as the effector moves up.  Now adjust the cable lengths until everything is neat.
Tighten and trim all of the cable ties. Move the carriages up and down their full range of movement, making sure they don’t catch on anything. Check that the heads of the cable ties don’t get in the way, and that the wiring looms are neat against the side panels. Adjust any cables as needed, and make sure the hot end loom and Bowden tube don’t catch on anything.  Tighten and trim all of the cable ties.

Bed Probe Wiring

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
1203.1 Bed probe loom – red or brown (old image; the latest wires are equal length) 1 Wiring Bed probe wiring
1202 Bed probe wire – red or brown 2 Wiring
257 M3x12mm cap head screw 6 Fastener
212 M3 washer 6 Fastener
1253 M3x8mm spacer 6 Hardware
Attach the ring terminals of the bed probe loom and bed probe wires to the bed mounting brackets. For each connection, the order is M3x12mm cap head screw, ring terminal of loom, kinematic mount, M3 washer, round spacer.  Attach the ring terminals of the bed probe loom and bed probe wires to the bed mounting brackets.
View from the front of the kinematic mount. The bed probe wires run down through the slots and back up again to the next connection.  Fisher Electronics 24
The loom with the connector socket is wired with the socket underneath the base plate such that its two wires run either side of the end of the Duet 2 Maestro with the Ethernet, SD card and USB connectors.

Repeat the above steps for all six connections. The circuit goes around the triangle. The round-headed screws on the print surface will complete the circuit (shown later). When the nozzle pushes down on the bed, the circuit is broken. This calibrates the nozzle height.

 The circuit goes around the circle. The balls on the print surface will complete the circuit

Fit the Power Jack

You will need the following parts:

# Component Qty Type
193 Power jack 1 Electronics Fisher Electronics 26
455 Power jack nut 1 Electronics
Turn the printer over. It can rest on its top as you connect the wiring. The DC power jack may now be fitted as shown, next to the Ethernet socket. In this orientation the central pin of the three should be on top. Fisher Electronics 27

Duet 2 Maestro Connections

Wiring Diagram

The instructions below show the fitting of the wiring. If in doubt, refer to this wiring diagram.

maestro-connections

 

On the left are all the Duet 2 Maestro’s available connections.  On the right is the same picture, but with the only the connections used in Fisher shown.

Duet Wiring Connections

In this section you will connect the wiring looms to the Duet, as shown in the pictures below. You can also refer to the wiring diagram above. You will need the following parts in addition to the looms you have already fitted to the machine:

# Component Qty Type
6202 DC cable – 250mm 1 Wiring  

motor looms and dc cable

 

477 Motor looms – 160mm

 

3 Wiring
Here is the Duet fitted, but with no looms attached.

The end of the looms to be attached are marked in red.

First check that the five jumpers on the board with the red dots in the picture are connected as shown, and that there are no other jumpers elsewhere.

Remember that you can click on a picture to get a large version.

 

duet-no-wires

 

Start with the extruder drive motor loom.  This is the longest motor drive cable, and it runs up the inside of the machine on the side panels to the extruder drive.  The red wire should go on the left, as in the picture.  duet-extruder-motor
Next use the three short 4-way motor looms to attach the motors to their driver connectors on the Maestro.  The motors and the ends of their looms are all labelled X, Y, and Z here.  duet-xyz-motors
Next connect the three two-way sockets on the end of the hot end loom.  Going from the back to the front and left to right in this picture, the connections are the heater (four wires in two sockets: red/brown and purple/black); the thermistor (blue and green); and the fan (white and yellow).

Make sure the fan goes in the always-on Maestro connector. It must run all the time the machine is switched on.

 

duet-hot-end

Next connect the bed-stop loom that runs to the three sphere/cylinder contact breakers at the three corners of the bed. This is a three-way connector with only two wires in. (The third central unused connection is to power endstop detectors that need a supply. In the Fisher all the endstops are simple switches.)  duet-bedstops
Next connect the three column endstop switch connectors.  The columns X, Y, and Z are labelled in the motor loom connection picture above.  Trace the microswitch at the top of each column corresponding to each motor down along its loom to find which of the three ends is X, Y, or Z.  duet-xyz-stops
Finally connect the power cable.  This picture shows the back of the jack socket…  Ground is the centre of the three tabs
  …and here is the power cable fitted. The wire with the stripe is Ground (GND), negative. The plain wire is +V, +19V.  The transparent cover over the screw connectors flips up on a hinge to the left in this picture so you can get at the screws.  Make sure all the connections are solid and tight, but don’t over-tighten the screws or you may damage the Maestro’s printed circuit board.  duet-power-cable
All the wiring connections fitted.  maestro-fitted-and-wired
With all the wiring fitted, tidy up the wiring so that it all fits below the level of the acrylic side panels. You can use a couple of cable ties to help. cables-tied-final

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